When you’re buying an engagement ring, you’ll encounter a world of new terminology. From "pavé" to "shank," it can feel like a foreign language. But understanding these terms is the key to feeling confident and empowered in your choice.
This guide will walk you through the essential parts of a ring, demystifying the language so you can speak to a jeweller with confidence.
Understanding the Main Components and Orientation
Every ring has two key parts: the head and the shank.
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The Head of the Ring: This is the upper part of the ring that holds the main diamond or gemstone. It includes the setting and is the focal point of the design.
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The Ring Shank: This is the circular part of the ring, also known as the band, that goes around your finger. The design of the shank can completely change the look and feel of the ring.
The orientation of your diamond is also a key detail. While traditional designs orient an elongated diamond (like an oval or marquise) north to south, an east-west set orients the diamond horizontally across the finger. This modern twist on a classic style is an unconventional and elegant choice.
The Different Ways to Hold a Diamond
The setting is the metal structure that secures the diamond to the head of the ring. It is the most important part of the ring for a diamonds safety, as well as the aesthetic.
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Claw Set (or Prong Set): This is the most popular type of setting, where small metal claws (or prongs) hold the diamond firmly in place. It allows the most light to enter the stone, maximising its brilliance and sparkle. The number of claws can change the look of the ring. A four-claw setting creates a classic, minimalist look, while a six-claw setting offers enhanced security and a more rounded appearance. A compass setting is a more modern take, where the claws are positioned at the compass points (north, south, east, west) rather than the corners.
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Bezel Set: A bezel setting uses a thin strip of metal that wraps around the entire girdle of the diamond, holding it securely. It provides a sleek, modern look and offers excellent protection for the stone, making it a great choice for active lifestyles.
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Peg Head vs. Cathedral Setting: While a cathedral setting uses graceful arches that are integrated into the shank to hold the stone high, a peg head is a separate piece of the ring attached at a single point to the shank. A peg head is often used in a solitaire setting to add a clean, modern aesthetic.
Diamonds on the Shank
Many rings feature smaller diamonds on the shank to add extra sparkle. Here’s the terminology you'll encounter for these designs:
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Pavé: From the French word for "paved," this is a setting style where tiny diamonds are set closely together, giving the impression that the surface of the ring is "paved" with sparkle. The metal between the stones is barely visible, creating a continuous sheet of brilliance. This is often the style of diamond setting used in shoulder set engagement rings.
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Half Set: A half set ring features diamonds that are pavé-set or claw-set along the top half of the shank. This offers the beauty of continuous sparkle when viewed from above, without the added expense and complexity of diamonds set all the way around the band.
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Eternity Ring: In contrast to a half set, an eternity ring features diamonds that are set all the way around the entire shank of the ring. This design symbolises an unending love and is often chosen as a wedding ring or an anniversary gift. The downside of a full eternity ring is that it cannot be resized, so unless you know the correct ring size, it's recommended to choose a half or three quarter set shank.
The Tiny Details
Finally, there are a few other terms that are helpful to know:
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Melée: This is the term used to describe the tiny diamonds that are used as accent stones in pavé or shoulder settings. They are small but play a vital role in creating a ring's overall brilliance.
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Accent Diamonds: These are the small diamonds that are used to "accent" or highlight the beauty of the larger centre stone. They can be set on the shoulders or on the head of the ring.
Knowing the anatomy of a ring allows you to have a clear and confident conversation with your jeweller. It empowers you to understand the craftsmanship and the details that make a ring truly special. Our guide to the 4Cs is also a great support on understanding a diamond's cut, clarity, colour and carat.
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